No. As I mentioned, I noticed it when I flipped it to attach underbridge. It was already there. That’s about a year ago. And having another look now, there’s 2 more exit wounds. One distal to underbridge, the other with a common screw to underbridge.
And yeh, Cosmic lodged a ticket.
Ok, missed that info. Tempted to open mine and take a look now.
This is the screw where mine first leaked. This is above where underbridge is attached. My akeys sits on a slant so the oil tends to run down toward the where underbridge is fastened. I dont think it has anything to do with underbridge as it is just a plate held on by the already existing screws.
PS Nothing from support yet.
it could be coming from the keyboard or maybe there’s something on the screws standoffs or could even be something on the PCB but i would probably think more the first two options, heat could probably play a role in there
Not sure what year your Subaru Keys is but head gaskets usually run $165, but the labor is intensive.
checks meme thread
I put my money on a leaked capacitor or flux residue. But the flux should have been cleaned after the solder joints have been made, but who knows. If its a leaked capacitor this needs to be fixed.
The flux capacitor is leaking??? Careful you might be sent back to 1955 by accident.
…i own an a4 mk1 from first ever batch…
it saw many venues in it’s first years, where it was pretty hot and even close to super hot pin spots and moving heads, while turned on pretty long after soundchecks and actual showtime…
never any liquid leaked out of it ever…
so, pretty convinced ur guessing is correct…it must be something that deals with the leyboard functionality for sure…and if it’s really any sort of oil, it must be something from the screws or the keysockets…something mechanical…
so aslong it worx and does not start to make any mechanical noises when playing the keys, it should be all fine…
It can be different capacitors that’s leaked on the two devices. It’s just my guess, I’m not an expert.
I got a response from support, they said is most likely keybed mechanism, nothing to be concerned about but can be cleaned up internally by local repair here in Aus. So I am not worried now and have an option to get it resolved but do not see it as an urgent matter but may get this done as time permits. Case closed!
that’s why the fatar key beds will last a life time 
That’s brilliant. Just gonna leave a newspaper under it for now.
Maybe Elektron can add AK diapers to the accessories section?
Did a search for AK dismantle, no results.
Anyone knows how straightforward this is?
Are you thinking of going in James?
I guess the cost will be $99 for one diaper, but of course you will get the Elektron logo on it. 
Yep. I’m thinking it’s better to mop it up, for those (now rare) occasions that it gets carried out in a case. Don’t want the oil pooling down to the back panel sockets.
Did you look at this thread ?
Of course it’s going to be messy, not sure if inverting the AK makes it messier ?
Keep in mind reassembly is generally the more difficult part. Document the disassembly, and be careful to keep parts, like in a jar or something.
This person, i think, removed all the screws in the bottom at once.
An alternative approach would be to do this in two separate steps. In the first step only remove the screws attaching the upper shroud to the base, leaving the screws attaching the keybed to the base in place. You should be able to pick out the eight screws that attach the keybed visually, and leave those untouched at first. Then separate, the upper part from the lower half, with the bottom plate with the keybed still attached. Careful with the ribbon cables.
In your case you are going to want to detach the keybed as well, so either method would probably work.
Be aware, i think reassembly will be more challenging to replace all the screws at once, trying to get everything aligned. Attaching the keybed to the bottom plate first, and then attaching this bottom assembly, may be easier for reassembly. You’ll need to decide which approach fits for you.
Reminder: You are dealing with an unknown substance, so safety first, gloves, proper disposal, etc. Proper grounding for you, like with a wrist strap, is recommended if you are handling things with electronic components, to protect them from static discharge.
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My first reaction to anyone with this oil problem, is to be reassured by Elektron’s statements. I’d probably come down on the side of “If it ain’t broke”, rather than “A stitch in time”, but if you’re bold and experienced, have at it.
ADDED: Thinking about this some more. If the source of this oil is really from the keybed mechanism, it likely is falling first on the keybed circuit board (the beige colored circuit board in the pictures) before making its way to the bottom metal plate. If you also want to clean the top part of this circuit board, the process of detaching that’s c.b. from the actual keys and frame will be much more involved. I’ve never done this sort of thing myself, so you’ll need to evaluate this challenge before proceeding. You may decide this extra step is the bridge too far, and be happy with whatever mitigation you’ve already accomplished as being enough.
Also if you’ve gotten this far you can consider any other maintenance / tune up you may want to take with the actual keys themselves, i.e. lubrication, cleaning, inspection.