Cute. Following. 
Got the spacers done to hold the shelf.
Mechanical screws will go through the spacers and will be attached under the boards with wing nuts.
Wiring will be done with strands of MR202-8AT multi-pair cable, 25AWG, fairly small and perfect for this application and a tight patchbay
I’m waiting on my connectors to arrive, in the meanwhile I might start the patch but mostly I will have to finish the board.
The wood has to be painted of varnished so the 3M dual lock tape sticks to the wood.
varnish seems a pain since I did not take great care in building the wood frame. I don’t want to fuck around with sanding and scraping the glue off.
I prefer natural wood color but I’m too lazy and I want it done fast.
So paint it is!!. Any thoughts on a better color than black??
#000000
- 0xA - 9
happy trees !
interesting thread.
I’m currently building a snug case to house 2x2 elektrons connected as a 69 cm by 43 cm by 7cm slab that I can angle up on a support.
Want them permanently wired up so I can just stick them on a table and start; but easily detachable if needs be (so using velcro which is rock solid - almost too hard to detach).
I had been thinking of an audio patchbay though. That little DIY unit looks great.
So far I’d been thinking of a permanent set up of
Top Row: OT & MNM
Bottom Row: RYTM and A4
Audio
mnm into A4
A4 into OT AB
RYTM into OT BC
Midi
OT out to everything (RYTM->MNM->A4)
Optional swap in mnm out to A4 or RYTM if I get inventive
Small mini keyboard in to OT.
I’ve also been thinking of using my axoloti plus arduino interface of joysticks, knobs n faders (butchered old faderfoxes) as a midi brain to interact with everything.
Shame midi is only 16 channels though for routing purposes.
Also doubt I can limit myself to 1x 6v and 1x 12v power adapter and use a y-cable to send to the elektrons…
Hey Mokomo
the Axoloti looks real interesting! I’v been wanting for a while to build a joystick for my A4. I know it works with USB mouse input to midi!
Also doubt I can limit myself to 1x 6v and 1x 12v power adapter and use a y-cable to send to the elektrons…
Pretty convinced this is a real bad idea, sadly I do not think there is a redily available solution for this. Pedalboard power supply’s rarely give out 6V and generaly do not offer the high ampage required by the elektrons boxes.
I’d meant use just one of each of the elektron adapters, each to power 2 machines per voltage (rather than a pedalboard power block) with a Y cable.
Depends on what their power draw is though, which I’m not sure of. And possible it might create some sort of electrical noise.
Just trying to save as much space & weight as possible!
Got that!
The OT power supply is 3 amps 6V DC.
According to the specs OT has a max total consomption of 18W
IxV=W
3x6 = 18
Conclusion, your amps are maxed out so a Y cable is defenetly out of question.
cool, thanks for working that out.
this is nice, i like the idea Regis 
very cool stuff!
Concerning the patchbay, I am using LIH LJE0352-4R 35mm connectors.
They have a shunt on the tip that I will not use. (unless someone has an idea)
Soooo, these connectors have pretty small solder lugs.
My canare cable has 1 pair 25AWG + drain. When using balanced cables for unbalanced applications, it is recomended to strap the neutral to the ground.
If I go forward with this idea that means I would have to have a total of 4 conductors on the jacks ground!!! (because it’s a stereo jack and two cables will be terminated on the ground)
No way this is going to be pretty or pratical.
This raised some questions on how I should do a proper ground scheme to avoid problems. (open to sugestions)
The TRS jack’s are nylon so they are not grounded to chassis defacto.
So, if the jacks are ungrounded and unpatched, the cables going to the patchbay would kind of act like antennas.
After some research I think it would be best to build a ground bus in the hammond box so all jacks and cables are grounded at both ends. (please tell me if you think this is not the way to go)
This would be a screw terminal to allow me to easely strap conductors together and have only one conductor going to each jack. It will also allow me to experiment with the ground afterwards if problems arise.
Another question on the table is if I change cables for braided 1 conductor instrument cable… 
There was a mixup on an order of connectors I placed online.
Sadly they will only arrive in a week or so.
I am also waiting for some 3M dual lock tape to arrive.
Short story i’m in a DIY mood and was bored so I picked up this kit in a store this evening.
I’ve been wanting to integrate a more obscure gadget in my setup.
You can use the shunt connector on the tip to create a default wiring for your patchbay. Connect the shunt from the output of one device to the shunt input of another.
That really would be great I if were doing mono jacks. I’m going for a stereo patch, the shunt would just pass one channel.
I would of loved it to be normaled mono, but that would mean more jacks, cables and a larger box. 
Oh I see, I missed that detail. I assumed the jacks were stereo for balanced signalling for some reason.