OT MK1 is very good in terms of DIY maintenance. Once they are start skipping etc, MK1 encoders are very easy to open them up and bring them back to perfect working order for another 5-6 years. On MK2 this is not possible, replacement and soldering is required.
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My MKI encoder A started to get that way about 7 months after I got it, immediately after the same 2 hour car trip where it got cold enough to corrupt data on the CF card. Sicne then it hasn’t gotten any worse (it’s been 4 years) or any btter, but when it happened there was a very noticeable change. It behaves normaly when you press it, but when you turn it without pressing it has a tendency to skip vaues or not respond at all if you turn it to fast, especially if you’re editing parameters with fewer than 127 values.
It’s interesting that it’s pretty clearly from that one time when it got cold (around -5F for probably 90 minutes, since it would have taken a while to cool down inside of the hardcase in the trunk of a car), but not wear since I’m pretty gentle with it and the other encoders that get as much if not more use (level, encoders E an F) are completely fine. Makes me wonder if this specific make of encoder has something other than normal wear that can make them get jittery. The feel changed a bit, too - before the car trip there was slightly more resistance, and after getting frozen all of them move slightly easier (like the difference between a new, factory lubricated potentiometer vs. one that’s been sprayed with control cleaner but hasn’t been actually been opened up to replace the more viscous lubricant that the spray cleaner displaces), and looking at the photos above I can see that a lot of lubricant seems have leaked out into the the seam betweeen the upper and lower halves to the encoder casing instead of staying inside where it belongs. Not sure if that means anything, though.
The post above mine is great, I’ve never cleaned my OT encoders but I’ve done other encoders that way and it works very well. The last one I did was a very jittery Akai S5000 encoder back in 2018 and it still works perfectly since getting cleaned.
I know it’s hard to show this kind of thing in a video. I haven’t noticed much in the way of different behavior between them. None of them are acting the way that folks in this thread are saying they should. Test Mode didn’t tell me anything last I checked, but I’ll look at it again.
Thank you to you and everyone else who replied, I appreciate it. I wish I picked up on this closer to when I got it but hey, what can you do.
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