That would work too. For now, a large rubber band solves the problem. But it would be easy to move the retaining pieces back a few mm for a more secure fit without the need for Velcro or rubber bands.
On second thought, Velcro might not work since the top device slots in like a NES cartridge. I’m also not sure which device should sit where. I swapped the positions of the MD and MNM because the curved sides interfered with the MD’s knobs but not the MNM’s buttons. I’ll need to jam on the Behringers before I make any further design changes.
the back panel is sized so that it keeps the cover in place, but doesn’t rub against any of the silkscreening
the side panels are set wide enough that they sit on the 3D printed stands (or the original wood end cheeks) rather than on the metal, further reducing the chance of scratching damage
the “clips” on the side prevent the cover from bashing into the knobs or buttons
Looks great! I might only suggest that if you want to enjoy it for a long time, especially without the color of the wood becoming very gray as wood tends to do over time, it would be easy (and cheap) to apply a few coats of spray Shellac or even a UV resistant clear coat. You could even stain the top first if you really wanted it to be fancy. If you didn’t mind making it, $3 is certainly cheap enough to be made again if you needed to redo it.
Good idea - one of the technicians at the library also recommended beeswax as a possible finish. My main limitation is that I live in a high-rise apartment, so don’t have a garage or workspace where I can paint or varnish. Also, I originally intended to engrave a cool waveform on the top face, but the cutting software couldn’t understand my curve so I abandoned that - for today. I’ll probably try again next week. Once I’ve finalized the design, I’ll look into finishing options.
I may redo all of the stands and this cover in nice marine plywood.
There is a great odor free option available which only needs a couple minutes in the sun or other UV light to cure (must NOT be applied in the sun) called solarez
also used for things like guitar body sealing/finishing.
the final step he does is clear coat but you could find a way around it.
I like that you have both TD-3 models. I keep thinking about buying one and then I get stuck with the decision between the original and the MO – on one hand the original has a nice distortion circuit (that reminds me of the DS-1), and on the other hand the MO has all sorts of awesome stuff, including filter FM.
I think you did it right: the answer is to get both!
Pushing two buttons at the same time on the RD-6 (such as [Pattern Group] + [Next]) didn’t cause the stand to tip, but it did slide back. I added some 1/8" weather stripping with built in adhesive strips. No slip, no tip.
Same - I’m mulling over various ideas for more abstract sculptures. The laser cutter can take in material up to about 20"x11" so I’m thinking about how to build a stable structure that is 6’ tall or so as a challenge.
Acrylic works well for stands like this too. It’s more expensive than plywood, but the 6mm thick stuff is very sturdy, and the right laser cutter (CO2) can cut transparent acrylic as well. Could even etch a design into it and put LEDs in the edge if you want to get really fancy..
Good to know - wood is very pleasant for me to work with, but I like the idea of embedded lighting. What would you recommend as an adhesive for bonding acrylic to itself?
edit: @obscurerobot my refrigerator didn’t come with any kind of shelf dividers so I made these out of clear pvc sheet and bonded with scigrip, works the same with acrylic - more or less the scigrip cement turns into acrylic so it’s not adhesive so much as a solvent I guess.
On a scale from Only Use In An Open Field With 10mph Of Wind to Might Be Good On Kale, how would you rate its aroma? (I’m working in an apartment with good ventilation, not a proper workshop)
it smells like fresh plastic. it’s not as bad as bondo but not as fresh as a daisy. I wouldn’t presume anyone would complain.
It’s best also if you get a secondary dispenser so its easy to apply a clean thin bead. straight out of the tube is a bit risky.
I think the dispenser I reused to put it in for secondary dispensary was made of hdpe #2 clear plastic. It doesn’t have the recycle number on it, but it feels like #2, it’s a bit pliable and this type of acrylic cement doesn’t set when in contact with it.