Yep, and the upcoming motherboard have all that on then
Gotta be honest here though, I kinda regret telling you about the Allegro.
Not because itâs a waste of money, theyâre high quality cards, but because I donât think itâs going to solve your problem in this case.
Iâm pretty sure youâll still have to isolate the ground loops.
They are cheep Cards that hold atleast 15 years. so its good, but what is the best way to isolate the loop?
Not sure, can you make a schematic of all your connections?
With all the problematic devices in it.
And the card is perfekt when USB midi2.0 is coming
Its 16 connection, but i thot the new MB its better. what Galvic isolator is best and do i connect it after or before the hubs before pc port. Or is it 1 galvic for one port? And is there galvic isolators with 5-10 in outs?
That doesnât tell me much, to fix a ground loop, youâll first have to identify where it is and where you can best break it.
Trying to isolate everything will cause you more trouble than it will fix.
I donât know of any multi-port USB isolators.
You could isolate audio lines, there are rack transformers that go up to 8 channels.
But know that any transformer in the audio path will change the sound a bit.
That site doesnât open for me, it hangs on the progress bar.
What USB isolator to get completely depends on the device that sits after it, youâll have to know the exact transfer speed the device actually uses. Just USB 1.1, 2.0 or 3.0 doesnât tell you that.
Before you go all out, try these first and see if that eliminates most of the problem:
This is an 8 channel isolator, itâs not top notch, but itâs good enough for most things:
If you want to have better quality, Iâm sure Radial Engineering makes something similar.
Or you can modify the Art one with high quality transformers, like Lundahlâs.
Cant solder hehe but USB POWER/DATA splitter - Dreadbox Synthesizers is a smart cable is there any same but higher quality, its good to have some special cables to trubbelthooting with. I Will try dreadbox splitter, i connect the controller from the black and connect from the plack to the hub, and only data is in the cable
I will will talk to designcable that have made special cables for be before. to make an USB-A to USB-B Fiber Active Optical Cable from instrument to USB hub if its even work hehe
The quality of that cable is fine, donât overthink USB cables.
Itâs just data, more expensive cables donât help with your audio, unless you were using dollar store ones before. All the stories about less jitter and better audio are just that, stories.
These are good quality cables:
https://www.udggear.com/by-product-type/accessory/cable
Those actually already exist, theyâre crazy expensive and rare.
And again, you will first have to isolate the problem.
It seems you just want to throw money at the problem to make it go away, but that wonât work in this case.
From your description you seem to have multiple ground loops in your setup, which means youâll have to identify each one of those first.
Those dreadbox cables will help with that.
You will still need to connect a power source to the red connector, something like a phone charger will do fine.
Those cables eliminate about 80% of the noise for most devices, which is more than enough in most cases. After youâve identified the problem, and you still think those cables leave to much noise, then you can look for better solutions.
You canât buy the best solution if you donât know exactly where the problem lies.
I have looked in to Shop the UDG Ultimate DJ Audio Cable | UDG Gear
it is what I call quality cables in a busy small studio with a lot of cables, it has good shielding and anti magnet ring that makes the digital signal cleaner. the only thing I care about in digital cables is that everything should come out at the same time and clearly. when it comes to money, I have passed the stage of buying things twice coz of bad cheep quality, ye now i bought overhub coz of my ignorance of how usb ground loops work, so I may learn the hard way here hehe.
But want to find products that have right quality to what is to be done, and that last a long time. and no audiohpile things where cables cost 300 euros which is sick. Itâs for music production in a hybrid setup with a lot of things going on in one small place to work. moog matriarch and eurorack only there are extremely many cables and from keystep pro is a lot even when it is at max.and the other synths and pedals, there many different cables and things that interfere with the signal and everything must enter cleanly in the computer where both digitally and analogously it must sync with clean signals.
but as I said further up in the thread, I will start with trouble hooting on cables and signal paths. I have good stuff for this purpose. then itâs good with discussion where I got many tips on cables and hubs ect which is very valuable. but the fashion card is too old and needs to be replaced, so I still need a new PC as it is 7 years old, usually buy new parts after 5-10 years when it comes to computer.
if I only need 1 optical cable to get rid of the problem where you fix the other with shealding and antimagnetic rings, then an optical usb cable of 60 euros is worth it, between pc and the remaining digital cable system in the studio worth it I think.
but I will see where it ends, it will be fun to find the problem and solve it where you have gone through problems and different cables and solutions in forums, where you learn a lot.
The first diagram is for an audio device powered by USB.
Itâs a handy diagram, but not fully applicable to your situation.
But you can use it to help you find the issue.
The other 3 are for an audio device with obvious compatibility problems.
Theyâre basically useless in this situation.
Look at this:
https://www.ranecommercial.com/kb_article.php?article=2107
and more technical:
https://www.ranecommercial.com/kb_article.php?article=2127
Thx Will check :). and i realy need to mark up my cables to, i have unbalanced mono, balanced mono, balansen stereo unbalanced stereo ect. And its easy somtimes to take the wrong cable., and splitters that is already marked up. Do you have any good tip where i can buy already marked so i can just tape on it a little nicely , have looked around, but dont find what i need.
I use a little Brother label printer(P-touch H105) to print little stickers that I can stick on cable plugs.
Itâs also handy to mark other things like wall warts.
There are also special labels for cables with a little section you can write on.
https://www.amazon.com/labels-cables/s?k=labels+for+cables
And there are some Neutrik plugs that support special colored rings to mark them, but those are mostly on their more expensive cables.
Have seen them all, and the rings i realy like but little work.