last question 
will the (3) 27100 battery pack power the Analog RTYM as well?
I looked into that (assuming you mean Ripcord USB-to-12v) and it will not, amps are capped for USB and not enough to power the AR or A4. The company said they were looking at doing some sort of āy-cableā solution where two USB ports could power a 12v 2A device but havenāt heard anything definite about it.
I ended up just going with the XTPower one and made a Y cable to connect the AR and A4 together from the one DC out (not internal obviously so hopefully not derailing the thread)
No I was asking about the battery pack mod
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K gotcha
Only if it uses the same power supply. MK2 machines all use 12V PSUs, so all can be modded. But there might not be enough space inside.
its 12V2A power (DC)
I made my version of this, with 3S2P layout with 18650ās. I modeled and 3D printed a sort of holder, itās on Thingiverse: https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:4295923
Advantages:
18650ās are cheaper (under 3euro a piece is possible), you get up to 7200mah when fully charged.
Still keeps the simple wiring from laikrodizās idea (no step-up and stepdowns).
Snug, solid fit, theyāll never come loose.
Havenāt tested battery life but going by laikrodizās 5-6 hours should be 7-8 hrs.
Downside:
weighs a fair bit more, very beefy feel now.
Need spot welder for standard 18650, or you need 18650ās with tabs pre-welded on.
You get this layout:
Hereās what the finished pack with BMS looks like:
More info how to build at Thingiverse.
ps: i donāt have a digitone, donāt know if itāll fit (thereās 5-6mm left or so)
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Congrats, looking clean and the linear placement is a nice idea!
Digitone has slightly less space vertically, so yours might work, with a single line of batteries or tighter placement.
Printing out two sets of your design right now and have 12 3700mAh 18650ās coming by this weekend for my DK and DT. Iāll let you know if it fits the Digitone.
Cool beans! Let me know if there are any problems for Digitone, and I can adjust my design.
Any advice for a āfailedā pack install? 
I made a pack with three LG M50s and this board that was linked in this thread somewhereā¦
It wonāt seem to charge enough to power the Digitakt properly. The listing for the board is very confusing. It says 12.6 volts, but the board itself says 11.1. Iām not getting 12volts out of it right now after charging it overnight.
Is there anyway to reset it to try and completely charge it? Is this just the wrong board.
Thanks for any thoughts!!
11.1 is just 3.7x3, which is a nominal voltage for 3 batteries. The board looks correct.
My Digitakt shuts off around 10.8 volt, so if youāre getting at least 11 volts it should turn on.
Try disconnecting the power pack and doing the first charge separately. Iāve seen this happen to some of the packs. As soon as the pack outputs anything above 11 volts, solder it back and it should work theoretically.
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yes please! late to the game on this. is there anyone who is doing these mods as a service? Iām not one for soldering anything!
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So there is indeed less room as the board extends further down in the Digitone. Your design still fits (just barely), but the M4 mounting hole doesnāt work where it is in the design. Iām sure just some 3M permanent tape would hold it just fine and it would be good, but it doesnāt screw in like the design intends. Including two photos of your design in the Digitone. Cheers and thanks!
Ah, bummer, itās too much to solve with some resizing of my design, you wouldnāt be able to fit a battery on either side of the hole with the board coming so far down. I could make a 3S1P version with just 3 batteries below, or I could move the inset for the hole higher up on the design, so it at least isnāt pushed up by the mounting holes. Iām afraid your battery pack might not clear the top board otherwise, and it can be dangerous to get a shortcircuit otherwise.
Iād need a precise measurement of the distance from the hole edge to the board for that, basically the gap in your last photo.
Atanguay: sometimes these BMSās do break, I had one of that type go bad in a powertool pack. Measure what each individual cell gives you, then measure the raw pack (so all 3 in series), cells should be equal, total should be above 10.8 at least, like laikrodiz says. The BMS needs to pass through that full voltage, it should only be cutting off under 10v somewhere. And keep in mind to properly, fully charge the pack, it needs more than 12v. You can also test if your internal solder job is correct by just connecting it externally with a dc jack.
I wouldnāt mind doing this for you, itās easy enough with minimal work on the device itself. Iām in Europe though, might not be practical if youāre in the US.
Took my digital calipers and made some measurements.
From the bottom of the screws on the circuit board (lowest hanging point on the top panel by about 2mm beyond the solder points) that is attached to the top board, to the bottom of the case is nearly 25mm. So that is total height available with about 2mm of extra height for a buffer built in to that figure.
Bottom edge of the lower circuit board to the center of the M4 mount holes is 18.25mm.
Total with of open area below the board is 54mm to the wall of the case.
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Has anyone fitted a Digitone Keys with an internal battery? Just sayinā¦
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Iāve added a potential Digitone stl file on thingiverse. The slots at the bottom extend symmetrically. Maybe try one print first to see if it fits? Also they might interfere with the 18650 battery, you should check if they could rub.
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Any thoughts on a pack that just wonāt charge past bout 8.4 volts?
I tried discharging the pack with a PC fan, and recharging it with a 13 volt bench power supply, but it still wonāt got past about 8.5. Very frustrating.
Once again, thank you so much for your help.