Thanks man. Will report back 
The internal battery mod is one of the coolest things about my digitakt. Makes it feel like such an individual unit. Being able to turn it on with nothing connected feels cool as hell.
I agree. But would like it to last a little bit longer than 45 minutes haha. I’ll install a new pack today and report back
I had similar short battery life on my first prototype made of three used laptop batteries. Buying batteries from weird brands with labels stating more then physically possible may have similar effects I guess
Not sure about overheating. But this definitely sounds like a damaged battery pack. Try monitoring voltage live and see how it handles and drops.
Yeah. I bought a couple just now from a legit shop that has lower mah but weighs more than the ones I bought online. I think the batteries I bought online was not as good as they stated will build a new one now and see how it goes
3h 40m on first charge. A bit better
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Nice — I think that’s in line with what most of us (certainly me) are getting without a step up board or charging past 12V.
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I charged over night and then it didn’t turn on at all with the batteries. I took them out and put them back in and then it worked. They are protected batteries i.e they have a little protective circuit on them. Does anyone know if that is messing with the BMS? Should I remove them?
Any one here who knows if it is possible to convert the dc coming out from the octa/DT in some way so you can power an effect pedal from it? Downscaling from 12v to 9v i guess
A voltage divider would do it. Or a cheap regulator.
Hmm ok. I’m really a noob at this. I can solder a battery pack like this but can’t really read an electrical chart. Is there any prebuilt option for this?
Something like this would work for this purpose. Or, just check and see if your pedal can take 12V, many can. https://www.amazon.ca/Adjustable-Converter-DROK-Regulator-Transformer/dp/B078Q1624B/ref=sr_1_1_sspa?dchild=1&gclid=CjwKCAjw8-78BRA0EiwAFUw8LAYF3oQDmwbYNcpaT85LwshM-Ch0SOeK418E8LqqDFLMwmJnV4-SCBoC6wUQAvD_BwE&hvadid=267121308381&hvdev=c&hvlocphy=9001516&hvnetw=g&hvqmt=e&hvrand=4788156851182417182&hvtargid=kwd-301880587569&hydadcr=19969_10097980&keywords=9v+voltage+regulator&qid=1604087729&sr=8-1-spons&tag=googcana-20&psc=1&spLa=ZW5jcnlwdGVkUXVhbGlmaWVyPUFUUUdDNlpZMllOSzkmZW5jcnlwdGVkSWQ9QTA0MTIwODAzMEtBWUNGVkNaR0YzJmVuY3J5cHRlZEFkSWQ9QTA1MDA4ODIzMUQ1U0Y2UzdORDRYJndpZGdldE5hbWU9c3BfYXRmJmFjdGlvbj1jbGlja1JlZGlyZWN0JmRvTm90TG9nQ2xpY2s9dHJ1ZQ==
That’s actually a valid point. I have the empress reverb. Looking into it now. Thanks
Hmm. It actually seems to take 12v but it has center negative and the Elektron’s has center positive? Do I need some kind of converter for that or can I just solder a cable with 2 DC adapters where I solder one end with positive tip and the other with negative tip?
Just grab a polarity inverter cable and you are golden!
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don’t suppose anyone knows the exact distance from the side of the DT case to the PCB?
I realise I am going to have to open it and check, but thought I’d ask
Done yesterday
(With a 3D print support for the battery by @Xoliul (thank you for your help) https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:4295923/ )
It’s working !!!
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would something like this do the trick so that you don’t need to create the 3d printer casing?:
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