Yes, all flat cables were well connected. As all 8 outputs on the DB25 failed, I guess they will need to replace the entire Dsub out PCB card.
how annoying… looks real clean though. what did they say re turnaround time?
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Thanks - I should normally receive a quotation for the repair within a couple of days. I guess the turnaround time will depend on the availability of spare parts. I’ll update here as soon as I have more information.
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good luck! hope its not so bad, keep us updated!
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Brief update - quote for the repair: new DSub 25 out card = 172 EUR; labor for change of component and test = 68 EUR (20% tax (French VAT) included).
I think this is consistent with what I had seen for Allen & Heath replacement PCBs elsewhere, and I am rather positively surprised about the reasonable labor cost given the need to completely disassemble the mixer (changing the DSub out card requires taking out almost all other PCBs).
On the downside: expected delai for receiving the new card = 8 weeks 
Edit: I also had to pay 54 EUR in addition for the diagnostics and the first hour of labor, so the total cost will be around 280 EUR…
This is how I feed the OT, I absolutely love resampling from multiple channels into the OT concurrently (via aux 1 sends) and then feeding the OT output back into a single channel on the model 1. You can also create some insane feedback by feeding the same OT output back into the aux 1 channel send.
Lost a few hours the other day going back and forth with this.
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So guys: I just got an email from the store in the Netherlands where I ordered/bought my MODEL1, five months ago. It was a b-stock that was suppsedly barely used and sent back.
I reported some issues here on the forum earlier in this thread some months ago, basically the issues you all have too. However, back then, I also reported these issues to the store (tonecontrol its called).
Now they sent me an email today that they just got a new batch of model1 mixers in (they were out of stock for months due to covid-related delayed parts I believe); and they are willing to give me a new one (no strings attached) and they will then send my unit for analysis/repair.
Should I go for it? I made an appointment to go there tomorrow, bringing my unit with me too, so I can compare/test it there and decide if I want to take the new one or keep my current unit. Quite some great service I reckon; what would you do? any things I should specifically test/look at when I’m there?
Thanks!
I use Cordial a “CFD DVT” breakout cable (CFD DVT). It exists in 1.5m, 3m, and 5m length (for example at Thomann: Cordial CFD 1,5 DVT – Thomann France). The multicore section is only 30cm long; after that the (relatively thin) individual cables are independent. This allows a lot of flexibility in connection, but is also prone to a bit of mess, when you move things around a lot.
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What exactly do they propose: an exchange without additional cost? Given the problems I have had lately (failing DSub out card), I would suppose it is a good idea to get a mixer with a “fresh” warranty. Maybe they also have improved on the zero crossing detection at lower volumes. It would be great if you could give us an update on this…
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Edit to clarify:
Regarding connections my advice is to buy a patchbay that will sit close to your audio card.
Connect the instruments to the patchbay.
Connect the patchbay to your audio interface.
Send the dsub to the mixer.
Nice and neat solution, no mess, no compromising the delicate breakout cable + no pulling on the dsub connector on the mixer
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Id take a new one over a repaired one for sure. Cant think why not.
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Thanks for the suggestion, however if i understand correctly that setup will still nog enable recording of individual outs that went through the model1, which is a pity since it sounds so nice.
Will let you know how it goes tomorrow, i also think i should definitely go for it, even if it has the same issues, for the warranty alone.
(Since if anything new happens, allen/heath will probably look at the serial number to judge how much warranty is left, right?)
Based on what Allen & Heath customer support told me, their warranty is not transferable. So I imagine you need to be the original buyer and show the invoice.
I am the original buyer, but 6 months ago (my current unit), should I ask a new receipt? With the new serial number on it?
I don’t know how this is usually handled. For such an expensive device, I would always want to have a document that proves my ownership of that specific box.
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Thanks, do you have yours back yet :)?
ETA for the new DSub out card is 8 weeks. So I will hopefully get it back in late October/early November. 
real bummer my friend. patience is a virtue, luckily you can still work with the RCA / jacks, good that the model 1 has both options. Going to the store now, will report back! Kind of curious to see if the ‘new’ models still have the same known issues (they probably do haha)
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So I’m back, really love the service @tonecontrol in Haarlem. They just ‘gave’ me a new model1, with new warranty, against no cost (lucky me, since the unit I had was a b-stock model from a year ago). So now my new serial number is: PDM1-001216.
First impression is that the problem with the white line/dsub button lights being different in terms of brightness is still there, but way less compared to my other unit.
The 0-crossing ‘issue’ when disabling the master filter button is still there, the same. Conclusion is like mentioned before here that this is ‘normal’ for this mixer and just something one has to accept I guess.
Will do more extensive testing and report back if any new issues appear.
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I wonder if model 1.4 has the same issue