Yeah me too. Although they said the 1.4 was sent back more often than the 1
But that had something to do with faulty pots they said.
Hi all. I’ve been following this thread for a while and had my Model 1 for around 4 months. Thought I’d share a hack/tip I’ve been using; the link in/out ports can be used to provide some useful additional inputs/outputs by simply buying a 9-pin DSUB connector with screw terminals and connecting a cable of your choice. In my case I just cut the end off a RCA to 3.5mm I had lying around. This provides you with options for a balanced feed into the main mix (for example from the main out of another mixer) as well as a feed into cue A and an additional unbalanced feed out for Cue B. I’m using the Cue A input to let me monitor effects on the master output as there isn’t a master insert on the Model 1.
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Brief update on my DSub out repair: Finally I got the mixer back earlier than expected… repair cost = 170 euros for the new DSub card and 120 euros for 2 hrs of labor (taxes included). I had opened the mixer before - it is really very densly packed (see my photo above) with the DSub card being the last to be taken out, so 2 hrs for diagnosis, disassembling, reassembling and testing seems fair to me. Moreover, I was able to leave it with a local synth shop, and the A&H certified technician collected it there, so I did not have any shipping issues…
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Is Dsub issue something known problem on model 1 or 1.4? Or you were just unlucky? I’m interested getting 1.4 but i’m not in UK so repairing is a big worry for me.
It was a failure of a component on the card. I have no info about the frequency of this The good thing with Allen & Heath is that they have a dense network of distributors and certified technicians in many countries. If something breaks you can get it fixed without sending the mixer to the UK.
Hey all, just picked one of these up! It’s so perfect for my needs but I must admit Im a little worried by some of the qc issues im hearing. Just wondering if my faders are already starting to play-up as it’s day 3 and the smooth silent feel/operation seems to have changed already, some are starting to feel a bit ‘gritty’ and are beginning to make a slight noise. Is this to be expected from this type of fader, did anyone notice similar?
Regarding this master filter/zero detection thing.
If you just leave the master fliter switched on all the time and then engage each channel switch(to master filter) how does this perform?
I am not with the mixer right now, but I am pretty sure that it is the signal on the specific channel that needs to be strong enough to trigger the channel’s zero-crossing detection.
I was quite concerned about this in theory, but it is not really an issue for me regarding my use of the Model 1 in practice.
Cool. Be interested to find out for sure. I saw one video on youtube and it seemed to be on the master filter switch he had issues.
Then if it was per channel, i hope its pre channel volume fader.
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I can try to test this tomorrow. What exactly do you want to try out?
Id imagine my most common way of using it would be to leave master filter switch on all the time.
So would be curious if this would cause any issues engaging any channels during a set.
Like, say i had 2 channels playing(underneath other tracks) that were both hp filtered on their channel eq/strip. Is this going to be an issue adding these hp filtered channles to the master filter bus?
I ask as the meter/db/volume drops with no bass. So these “hp filtered channels” may not engange the zero crossing detection. Then i sweep the master fiilter and the dont get filtered out.
Ok, I understand. I will give this a try tomorrow.
Nice one .
Be interested to see where the mixer takes its zero crossing point from. Pre or post eq and fader.
Be best if was pre for sure.
I just tested the zero-crossing detection on my mixer.
It happens in fact post-fader, in other words: when you change the master filter assignment for a channel whose fader is all the way down, you can notice the master filter kicking in (or being taken out of the signal chain) as you bring the fader up.
The exact moment when this happens depends on the signal gain (the louder the better), but for a correctly gain staged signal the switch occurs at around 1/4 of the overall fader path.
The post-fader design is also visible in the mixer’s block diagram in the manual.
In practice, though, I do not think it is very much of an issue. I clearly prefer the zero crossing detection to having clicks…
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Thank you. Much appreciated.
I’ve started having dangerous thoughts about the Model 1.4…
Does anyone know if the volume stays constant when fading between cue and master? I have a Xone:22 where the volume dips for some reason when you have the cue in between channel 1 and 2, and I’ve heard the Xone:96 has a similar issue with the cue/master, which makes me think it’s in some way a deliberate thing(?!) so I wondered if it carried over to the Model mixers. I’d like to be able to mix just with headphones sometimes (to avoid making noise) so being able to smoothly switch between cue and master without having to change volume would be nice.
I just tried to test this on my Model 1 mixer. Using headphones, I found that the cued signal was significantly louder than the same signal when listening to the master. To bring the master to the same level as the cued signal, I had to raise the channel fader to about +6, or in split cue mode turn the cue/mix knob about 60 degrees to the right to perceive the same signal loudness on both sides.
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Thanks very much for checking! That’s a shame. I’m not sure why it seems to be this way on a lot of A&H stuff… it just makes mixing purely on headphones more inconvenient. Maybe I’ll have to stick to boring old Pioneer lol
I mix in headphones sometimes when late at night but just do it on normal cue mode. Just keep the new cueing tracks channel fader very low when cueing it and bass turned down. Then fade it in once ready to mix. Does for practise jams.
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