Solution to dirty/ less responsive encoders

I have a MD UW MK-I, so it’s kinda old. Some knobs would barely respond, even with lots of twisting, so I decided to use contact cleaner and it worked way better than I expected. I’ve applied the liquid a few times already, some of the encoders have ‘dried’ out, probably because there is still more cleaning to do; however, the rest of the knobs work perfectly and I don’t need to apply liquid to them again for a long-long time.

I carefully removed the knobs with my bare hands (you need some grip). I like to scrub in between the encoders with the cleaning pen, so that it seeps in for a few minutes before I start twisting them. The dirty encoders gush out a tiny amount of black residue which can be wiped away. After cleaning, and twisting for a few minutes, the digital encoders are like-new.

I got this on amazon, but here is the manufacturers’ site.
http://www.mgchemicals.com/products/prototyping-and-circuit-repair/pens/super-contact-cleaner-801b-p/

yes it works to get them functioning again and thats cool, the black stuff coming out is the silicone lubricant which is kind of important to stop the contacts wearing out. if you could reapply the lube they will last longer but its almost impossible to get it in there without disassembling the encoder.
so… its kind of a short term fix but hopefully it lasts a long time for you.
the MDmk1 had some nasty batch of encoders that wear out really fast… i did what you did too to get more life out of them but ultimately they all needed replacement, some of them twice! the jog wheel and analogue volume pot are notorious. if you plan to do it, i suggest marking around the jog wheel encoder at its base on the PCB before removing the old one, this is to get the new one in exactly the same position as its very hard to get the wheel to line up perfectly with the faceplate again otherwise. btw i replaced my jog wheel encoder with an ALPS one the second time, much better quality. the shaft was slightly longer though so it needed trimming. hope this helps!

I don’t have any experience with replacing encoders, looks like a nasty job, haha; hopefully nothing breaks. The jog wheel and volume knob is fine for now, but, what brand of encoders did you buy to replace the other ones? Alps as well? Btw, one encoder, which had a noticeable grittiness to it, no longer has the grinding feeling after having been cleaned. I might just go and apply some silicon to all the knobs for extra protection. Thanks for the valuable info.

Careful with the ‘silicone’, its called fader grease, its not a liquid but a thick goop like vaseline in consistency… impossible to ‘add’ back into the encoder from the top. These encoders are not designed to be repaired… on spec they have 30,000 rotations and i think 10,000 clicks, in reality its much less.

nasty… hmm well its not as simple as squirting contact cleaner in but if they totally crap out you are left with little choice, its not very hard but some encoders more than others because of where they are, arranged on the PCB. its well documented on th EU forum but the best way is to snip out the legs of the faulty ones and apply heat, remove the remaining solder tab, then suck out the remaining solder. then you can easily solder in the new encoders.

i used original encoders supplied by Elektron as spare parts… about $5 each. I think the quality is improved slightly since the mdmk1 but not significantly… its essentially the same cheap plastic shaft product.

better quality encoders would be a good idea for these machines as they are such tweakboxes oh well

reminds me i must get out the old soldering iron out soon , my encoders are working though but feel horrible to to move and quite a bit of wobble, guessing they have months left in them! also my main volume pot needs replacing , have a small bit of crackle when adjusting the volume, i have the pot for it now but im putting it off for as long as possible! :slight_smile:

Anyone care to post the specs of / links to the replacement encoders / pots?

Seems like a good thread to have it in.

I would too be interested in the part number. My upgraded mk1 uw is acting bonkers

Anyone?