Help with first modular skiff

There are a lot of possibilities just with those! There are two classic patches called “Krell” and “Bouncing Ball”. I wrote these up for Falistri in the notes I linked above. But with Falistri, some additional modules are needed in each case (a source of randomness for Krell, a VCO for Bouncing Ball). However, each of these can be implemented just with Quadrax! It’s a fun exercise.

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I have started to source the various components of my skiff.
Any of you guys have some hints or preferred shops or second hand?
Apart from the components (modules and case) and cables, what is the USB type that goes from Digitakt to the Intellijel Palette. A or B? Any other bits I should think about? Screws to fix modules?
Thanks :pray:
Edit: I am based in Spain :slight_smile:

Hey. I was exactly in your shoes about half a year ago. Hope I can share a light in some aspects.

The option blindness is a real thing in modular, but I think you have a good mindset. The great thing about modular is that you don’t really ‘need’ to have all the things from the start to have fun with it. You can just add and remove things as you see fit. Somewhere along your journey you will think; I’d like to do X or Y. And that’s when you could start getting new things.

Manis is a great way to start because it’s an entire voice of it’s own. You could honestly have fun with just the uMidi, Manis an attenuator (most attenuators also handle audio or the 1u out could handle this) if you plan to couple it with your digitakt. One of the cool things about the you uMidi with the something like the DT or DN is that it can give you so much sequence posibilities, since you can route every output of that module into the manis. And manis really comes to life when sequencing all, or at least some, of the inputs and the digi-sequencers are really powerful. A DT can give you 4 channels of CV sequencing and 2 gates btw. And if you plan on routing the audio through a DT you can use its effects to, so reverb, delay or compression aren’t really important right now.

Your filter choice is also great and covers all the basis that you’ll ever need. I don’t wanna recommend to many modules, but the WMD c4rbn might be worth checking out though. It covers all basic filter tips and has some nice extra features like wavefolding/saturation and it is way smaller. I don’t think you can go wrong with polaris though.

Also about the whole bigger/smaller case discussion: Yes, bigger is more cost effective, but the palette case really has some things going for it. I love the fact i can just slap a few modules in there really quick and just bring it with me in my backpack to jam with friends and don’t have to worry about cable converting thingies and all that stuff. If you make music only at home something bigger is advised. I mean in the Netherlands a palette case is almost as expensive as a tiptop audio mantis case, which is about double the size. I’ve got both at the moment and don’t regret either purchase, that’s all I’m saying.

Just a final thing, don’t worry too much. Just a couple of modules get you a long way and none of your choices have to be forever. Don’t like a thing, return or sell it. Like the thing, enjoy it. Hope this helped a little bit and just keep asking questions :slight_smile:

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Thanks a lot for your input @Don_Murowski :pray:
It is indeed much appreciated. As it is a first time for me, I am quite cautious about advice on X or Y modules as everyone aims at various styles/workflows.
I will have a look at the filter module you mentioned. I am actually writing down since a couple of days every single bit (of modules) that you guys recommend :slight_smile:
Regarding case size: I totally understand your point. Mine will be used mainly at home along with a Digitakt and a DFAM. Though for the style of music I am aiming at, I believe just a couple of modules should do OK for the moment. Plus I don’t want to be tempted to fill a case with modules before getting a good gripe on routings, functions and options.

I believe I read that the MIDI type is A. Screws come in two sizes, make sure you get the right ones (M3). Befaco Knurlies can be put in by hand, but they are expensive and they protrude a bit (necessarily). Get washers as well, these are inexpensive and protect the surface of the module. If you are selling something and say it was racked with washers, that makes it more attractive to the buyer. If you don’t have a small screwdriver of the right size, you’ll need that.

I’ll let the Europeans comment on favourite shops and second-hand options.

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I am not too sure I get this one. Would you mind explaining? Are you talking about the functionality the Intellijel 1U MIDI module gives me?

Thank you ever so much :pray:

@plragde that was fast!
Thanks for the hints :pray:

Oh, one more. A good site to check availability is wigglehunt.com. It is not comprehensive and not always reliable (in that it might show something in stock at a retailer but the fine print on the actual retailer site says “back-ordered”) but it really cuts down on the clicking.

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Of course. The midi 1u has two modes. One for one voice which gives you gate, trigger, pitch, velocity, CC and… I don’t know, something else haha. And another mode for two voices which gives you two gates, two pitch and two velocity channels (which would listen to two seperate midi-channels). But a velocity sequence you’ve made on DT doesn’t have to go in a ‘velocity’ input on your modular. It could also be routed to the pitch or envelope time on manis for example.

Maybe a useful tip; it doesn’t reading a manual of a module that you find interesting that you don’t have yet. It gives you a better understanding of what a module can do before you get it.

Hope my explanation is clear?

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Absolutely :+1:

Mod :slight_smile:

That is the bit I had missed :slight_smile:
That opens up a lot of options to address various modules on distinct MIDI channels right?

I am all up for that actually :slight_smile:
Last synth I bought (Hydrasynth) was digested before its arrival.
Though I have to say/admit the modular world is so new and vast for me that I am trying to achieve multiple things at the same time:

  • Getting the know how
  • Listing interesting modules
  • Sketching up a skiff
  • Spending a lot of time on this forum :joy::joy::joy:

Once the various bits and pieces are in place, it will be all for manual reading. Quadrax gives me chills in that regard.

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Yeah, it gives you two midi-channels to work with

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In EU myself. I check ModularGrid marketplace first. Prices are usually right. The feedback system (likes) doesn’t offer a lot but PayPal protection exists for a reason. Click “notify me” and it’ll pop up eventually.

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WoW…
I am currently checking prices and availability…
Nothing to do with the prices on Modular Grid.
For instance:
Intellijel MIDI 1U on Modular Grid: 170€, on Music Store: 205€
As for availability, Intellijel Stereo Out 1U: 9 to 12 weeks on Thomann :open_mouth:

Some modules / manufacturers have been hit hard by Covid related chip shortages.

Waiting months for the Frap Tools 321 to be available again …

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yep…

The prices on ModularGrid are often list prices from when the module was released. If the listing has been locked by the manufacturer, it is up to them to update, and they sometimes do not. You will notice that Intellijel uMIDI is still listed as available on MG, but it has been discontinued. That is Intellijel’s fault. At least you don’t need the Stereo Out immediately. MIDI is more annoying, but you can at least make some noise (and, ahem, maybe this gets you to think more about CV.OCD…)

I suspect the prices on ModularGrid also don’t include VAT?

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A good tip to get a real idea of a modules cost / value is to search for it on ebay and filter by completed listings.

You’ll see a spread of prices- ignore the very lowest and highest and the bunch in the middle is the real price.

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How do I output the sig al though, without the Stereo Out?
Some things have clicked, some others… Not yet.
Sorry for the stupid question.

Most audio interfaces can handle modular levels just fine. Just be careful with gain. If you want or need more control you could use most attenuators to lower the level. I used to use a WMD 4tten for this because I had to wait forever for my 1u out, so I feel your pain haha. But you were also thinking about getting a quadratt right? That wil do the job just fine as well.

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