Hey,
a question about the OLED display; what distance should it have from the board, ideally? I am looking at the github build photos and if i compare to the buttons height i think i can have it somewhat close to that, but are there any more detailed instructions that i should know about? Thanks. 
If you mean my build in this thread: trying to understand MegaCommand vs. MiniCommand · Issue #1 · jmamma/MIDICtrl20_MegaCommand (github.com)
It later proved to be a perfect fit into the “Tall” enclosure:
Hey v-yadli,
no, i´m looking at the photos in the 1.02 github folder section, (https://github.com/jmamma/MegaCommand_Design/tree/master/1_0_2), namely IMG_0832.jpg:
The cases built are the ones referenced in this section too.
I guess i can´t go wrong if i get the height similar to this, i hope, with that enclosure in the 1.02?
Btw yours look great, love the colour combo!
Edit: i think i can answer myself, logically if i follow the mounting height of the pots which are similar to the buttons and such it should be ok, at least i hope so.
I guess i can´t go wrong if i get the height similar to this, i hope, with that enclosure in the 1.02?
Yeah. Sounds about right.
Here’s what I thought about the screen height:
If you solder the switches correctly, then 1) will hold true.
So, as long as the solder points of the screen are on par or below the cap rings, 2) will hold true.
You never want 2) to be false.
I dont really understand the explanation but that´s ok, your build is a bit different than mine so i guess it don´t matter. But at least we agree on the basic logic of it.
But now i notice that the switch in the middle of my picture is much, much higher placed on this image than how i have placed it. No matter, i have extras so i can replace it. Good that i saw it now though…
Now comes the exciting part, tomorrow i´m gonna begin with the software part and see what to do and how to do it. 
I have a short power switch too… Guess we can fix it with a tall cap instead.
Good luck!
Thanks!
From build instruction:
OLED:
13. Oled display requires correct resistor poisiton in order to be configured for SPI mode. (See documentation above to confirm the resistor placement)
14. Male header to be soldered to OLED board. Header is then soldered on to MegaCommand PCB.
The height of the OLED display is important. The distance between the mainboard pcb, and the bottom on the OLED pcb should be 5mm when soldered.Darn… i must have missed male header to be soldered, which one is that? How does it look? From the pictures i have not been able to see anything not like my prototype (beside the switch, i mean)
There is already one header pre-soldered to the board, should there be two??
Nope. it’s a single header. When I bought the oleds the header didnt come pre-soldered.
The important point was that when soldering the oled… the distance between the main board and the bottom of the OLED pcb is should approx 5mm.
Phew, then i´m home free. Just measured up the distance and it´s more or less exactly 5 mm free space between the loed and the megacommand-board.
This is how one of my displays looks like, fyi:
Looks fine. Did you make sure the OLED’s are configured for SPI mode (from factory)
Best to verify the jumpers are in the right place before soldering…
https://learn.adafruit.com/2-3-monochrome-128x32-oled-display-module/assembly-1
Oh. I ordered them to be as instructed in this thread when i asked not so long ago. How do i check that? I just hoped or trusted buydisplay to send them correct set from the start.
What is the right jumper setting?
Also, is there any other build document than on github or is it the only one to use? I just want to double-check i use the right one… Maybe someone has documented their process somewhere… Might be useful!
the Adafruit link above explains the jumper settings.
If you order SPI then it should be fine. If you want to triple check you can take a read above.
Well, it looks like i´ve been scammed.
Check this, first image is receipt where i state that i want SPI:
And this is how they look, as i can interpret the link i should have the resistors placed at the zeroes instead of ones, right? I mean, on BS1 it should be top side, on BS2 on bottom side. Right?
Bollocks, i thought i got it right… did i do a mistake when ordering anyway?
Now i have 30 displays where i have to re-solder these. Ok, i can do it, but it´s not really a fun prospect.
Edit: checked the datasheet and yes, R3 and R5 should be connected, not R2 and 4 as on mine. Asking buydisplay for compensation since i paid extra for this, and will also take me some time to fix the lot…
I posted the link for the wrong display before.
Here’s the correct one.
Thanks; unfortunately it’s the same result. But i hope they will att least refund me, and i know some of the ppl i have ordered for are not bothered by a tiny bit of extra soldering. But where i can and they not, i will solve it for them of course.
good thing you checked!
Edit - i´m removing the negative comment i wrote about BuyDisplay. I didnt read the github part about the display and resistor values that needed to be changed before soldering. DOH! Sometimes i feel very foolish. But my only excuse is that i´m stressed out.
I regret typing some of the things about BuyDisplay, it´s noty their fault and they have been friendly and helpful. Sorry about spreading negative vibes, but i got disappointed, is all.
I´m sorry i didnt read the part before i soldered ithe display in place, removing it to fix the resistors was NO FUN at all. But just the resistors is no biggie.
Now i hope i didn´t destroy the display in some way in my prototype. Trying to find out the next step to go…
Success! The prototype WORKS! Now i have to install the new OS to my MD as the next step… Oh, fun fun… The software part was simple, only compiled the firmware, connected via USB and uploaded it. And then suddenly it was alive. Couldn´t believe it… 
