MegaCommand // MiniCommand Resurrection // MCLive

Hi. I’m trying to start my build but the build video goes to a broken page. Does anyone have an alternate link to to the build video? Or is it because I’m trying to watch on a Windows 10 laptop? Thank you in advance.

Justin Valer’s site seems to be down along with the link. Hope everything is ok.

I removed the assembly video from youtube because it’s for an older revision of the pcb.

Edit: I’ve made them public again. Just note that there may be some differences during assembly.

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Glad that it wasn’t anything serious! Thank you so much! You are so awesome! I’m super excited to try this out. Thanks for everything!

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Lockdown hacking :slight_smile:

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I’m actually in the middle of doing this.

Making rack ears to move the MD to one side and in the 4”, drilling the layout for the megacommand controls (not sideways like you tho :P)
Was trying to redesign the pcb layout, but I suck at eagle…

Technically there’s enough room making the pcb a tad bigger, including a 4 channel, 2output mixer

Prototype of the mixer part:

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Check on tme.eu.
I get often components over there for my DIY builds and they have plenty of knobs and caps. My preferred one are Cliff K88, I use them on my modular modules.
You can also contact Cliff directly in Uk, they can do also small/medium quantity runs.
I use always the white cap, but there are different color caps if you want (with or without indicator for encoders).
They are not made of rubber, plain plastic, but I think that’s the best compromise between look/ergonomics and price.
Oh, and always check the mounting: knurled or d-shaft (d-shaft orientation is not a problem in case of cap indicator as the cap is separated from the knob, so you can always adjust the position if needed).
Dunno current TME stocks, but in case I would drop an email directly to Cliff UK.

https://www.cliffuk.co.uk/products/knobs/rotary.htm#k88

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What are you routing in to the Mixer?

Main goal was just a 4 channel line mixer for live use, so I can take a single 5u case with me. MD on one channel. Offset the MD in the case to the left side. use the 100mm (95mm feasible. Mixer is ~95x85mm now) between the md and the right rack rail to put the megacommand and possibly mixer. Could multi out the md to it. Has a main and photo/booth out. 12-16v which is why I was asking about power on the mega before. 12v can probably get away with a ripcord to power both.
Needs some work. Signal levels are pretty hot.

I use pretty small setups live. My live rig is changing pretty rapidly, so I dunno of I’ll see the mixer part through, or not for a bit.

Main goal was to redo your pcb but turned 90°, add the mixer to the top (above where the midi ports currently are) Really only part shared would be the power rail.

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Thanks rics, good advice!

A question to all you that build or has built MCL.
I have a problem with the pushbuttons being stuck in pressed / down mode by the case when i tighten the pots nuts to the case.
I have used the 5 mm distance recommendation between display and board, but it seems like i need some longer distance between PCB and case.

One other solution is to cut or or file away the small ring that add extra width in the open bottom of the button caps

It’s only a mm or something round the cap extra, but the case is so low it pushes down the cap thanks to the ring.

Your experience? Heres an example. On the left you see the cap, with the ring on the lower end that makes the button lock in down mode. On the right i have one spare that i abused to remove the ring.
Wat would you have done?
I can add extra nuts to the pots i guess to give it more height… I will try it out, but risk is that the midi connectors still pushes up that side… But i will try!

First i thought to file the hole a bit bigger but luckily i realized what the problem was early enough.

sand off ring with dremel. never gonna see it
better than countersinking a hole on the case

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Yeah, most likely you are right. Or i just use a sharp knife and cut it off carefully. Either way it will work.
Weirdly enough it´s just on some of the cases and i see no pattern…

This is a known and frustrating issue.
Seems there is a small tolerance problem on some cases/builds that can cause the bottom left button to get stuck.

Tricks:

  1. Reseat the mainboard, try again. Check alignment of LEDs and OLED display.
  2. Don’t overtighten the nuts. Just tighten them to the point of resistance.
  3. The backplate rise might be causing the main board to press against the case.
    Rotate the back plate so that rise is not pressing against the MIDI ports. See if the problem is resolved. If so, you can either choose to not use the rise, or sand it down slightly to improve the fit.

FYI:

The following commit was an attempt to resolve this problem. It has improved the issue, but has not completely eliminated it.

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Hello there !

I’m trying to build one of those beautiful beast, so far so good, but I’m having trouble sourcing a micro sd connector that match the PJS008-2130-0 recommended in the built, and that can be available in europe.

I found this one : https://www.mouser.fr/ProductDetail/Molex/502774-0891?qs=HaAz2OYkmGggsnJ7oFWqbQ%3D%3D&utm_source=eciaauthorized&utm_medium=aggregator&utm_campaign=502774-0891&utm_term=5027740891&utm_content=Molex

It match the specs apart from the mounting which is reverse for this one as oppose to top for the PJS008-2130-0. Can it cause problem down the road or I’m fine with it?

Also many thanks to you Justin and v-yadli for all the work that your putting into this project !

Is that SD reader for the previous PCB version? The ones i used i get from thonk in UK. Which bom in github do you use?

i recommend the yamaichi sd card holder, easy soldering on the PCB :

https://www.thonk.co.uk/shop/radio-music-sd-card-holder-only/

Thanks Justin, i do a little of everything but usually resort to cut off the lower offending ring and then file the edge smooth. If the next owner tighten the nuts a little extra it will likely still work. I have also once or twice added the pots washers on the inside, just to gain a little extra height. Also work. And yes, also keep the backplate rotated.

Hey,

I think I used the one that you posted sometimes ago with few modifications. I’ve been verifying so much different projects that I don’t remember exactly which BOM I use between yours and the 1.0.2 on ghitub.

Thanks I forgot about Thonk ! But actually I find a cheaper one at Futureelectronics for those who are interested : https://www.futureelectronics.com/fr/p/interconnect--connectors-pcb--card-connectors/pjs008u-3000-0-yamaichi-electronics-4048459

Thanks ! I find it cheaper at Futureelectronics. Happy me !

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Well searched! Had i known… unfortunately they are out of stock now. :frowning: